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Local Innovation at The Bewildered Pig

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Last week I traveled to Mendocino with Canuck for an early birthday celebration! He let me do the majority of the planning – including two breweries (no, I don’t just drink wine) – but did suggest a dinner spot in Philo for our first night of the trip: The Bewildered Pig. I trust Canuck’s picks, especially when it comes to food, and after checking out their menu and hearing that his friend from culinary school is the sous chef, I got pretty excited about this place.

The Bewildered Pig is the brainchild of Chef Janelle Weaver and her partner, Daniel. After spending several years as an executive chef at a prestigious Napa winery, Janelle ventured out on her own culinary endeavor with the goal to create an unpretentious restaurant with a large focus on farm to fork, sourcing everything locally (their pigs come from down the street) and from their own gardens. The dishes are elegant yet casual, refined yet rustic, sophisticated yet simple; dualities that I learned Janelle possesses herself after chatting with her throughout the course of the night.

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The wine list is a combination of selections from Anderson Valley and Sonoma County and an extensive list of Old World favorites. Keeping with the local theme, I selected the 2014 Balo “Suitcase 828” Estate Pinot Noir. The wine was more feminine on the nose, with aromas of white flowers, bright red fruit and an element of freshness. But the palate was bold and earthy, reflecting more of a masculine tone. One of the things I love most about Pinot Noir (especially Pinots from Anderson Valley) is how androgynous it can be, which makes it a versatile wine for food pairings. Sure enough, it paired perfectly with nearly everything that we ate.

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We started off the evening with a delectable amuse-bouche from the kitchen: Penny Royal Laychee Crostini with a Pea & Fava Pistou. (Side note: Penny Royal is a local farm and creamery that offers tours and tastings Thursday through Monday in their new shop on Hwy 128. They make a variety of cheeses that are also available at one of my favorite Philo wineries, Navarro Vineyards.) Our delicious cheesy bite was followed by a house made Mendocino County Heritage Pork country pâté with Dijon mustard and shallot chutney – the perfect combination of salty, sweet and spicy.

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On to the vegetables. Canuck selected “Celebration of Carrots” and I chose an assortment of seasoned radishes with salt and butter. The radishes were simple yet so satisfying, and it felt good to eat some raw vegetables after an afternoon of beer tasting (be sure to stop in Anderson Valley Brewery on your way into Philo). The carrot plate was indeed a celebration and quite possibly the best vegetable dish I have ever had the pleasure of tasting. The plate is composed of a seven different uses and varieties of carrots: confit tiny Thumbelina and French, pickled rainbow, housemade carrot crackers, fried carrot fronds, carrot top pesto and garlic aioli. I talked about this dish to anyone who would listen for several days. I’m still holding out hope that Canuck will find a way to recreate it…

And as if those were not enough starters, we picked two more to share: smoked local black cod potato salad, and Gulf prawns with garlic lemon aioli and what Janelle and her team affectionately call “fluff,” an array of herbs, flowers and stuff. The cod is local (Princess Seafood out of Fort Bragg) and smoked by Angelo’s in Sonoma. It’s served with heirloom potatoes, confited in olive oil, and fresh shaved Petit Teton horseradish, bloomed mustard seeds, whipped crème fraîche, herbs, watercress… and probably a few other amazing things that I am missing. Not only was it beautifully presented (like all of the evening’s dishes), but the combination of flavors was beautiful to eat.

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Last but not least, we each ordered the Lamb Duo (despite the fact that Canuck usually prefers not to order the same thing as his dining partner). It was written on the menu with all of my favorite Spring things so it was impossible to resist. In hindsight, we agreed that it easily could have been shared considering the amount of food we had leading up to our entrées, but we still managed to finish the majority of our dishes. The Lamb Duo was composed of lamb loin and confit cap, sheep’s milk ricotta gnocchi, fresh tarragon, chives, lemon zest, fava beans, asparagus, fava leaf and garlic puree, served with a lamb anise hyssop reduction. I never imagined that all of these things could exist so cohesively on one plate, but it was near perfection.

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If you don’t already have enough reasons to visit Anderson Valley – the plethora of unique and inexpensive wineries, fishing along the Redwood lined highway, bountiful farms and orchards, whimsical seaside villages, adorable inns and a brewery in a town with their own made up language – add this dining experience to the list. The Bewildered Pig is truly a destination restaurant, worth every mile traveled, and I intend to make it a regular pilgrimage. In fact, I can’t wait to go back and see what other seasonal items they have on their fantastic menu.

Big thanks to Janelle, Izzy and the entire team for such a memorable evening!

Pizza in Philo: Stone and Embers

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A few months ago, Starry forwarded me an article that SF Gate posted about a new pizza joint in Philo called Stone and Embers. Without knowing much about it, we decided this would be the perfect place to dine after a day of wine tasting. So after hitting up our seventh and final stop, we drove less than a mile North to The Madrones where Stone and Embers is located. We had already taken a peek at the place when we were at The Madrones a couple hours earlier making a quick stop at Knez Winery, a modern tasting room that serves up some delicious Pinot Noir from several distinctive vineyards. Perhaps it was because we had high expectations, or maybe it was the lackluster service (only two waitresses for about 40 dinner guests), but the dining experience was less than perfect.

My new favorite Belgian!

My new favorite Belgian!

After a day of Pinot Noir, we couldn’t wait to take down a couple of beers. I opted for North Coast Brewery’s Prankster Belgian Style Golden Ale while Starry selected a Russian River IPA. After about 15 minutes of waiting and chatting with our nearby dining neighbors, a waitress finally came over and took our order. Starry and I decided to share the mushroom “chicharrones” with parmesan and porcini salt, the roasted bone marrow with toasted country levain and roasted garlic, and the The Jeffer Pizza with tomato sauce, house made turducken, smoked mozzarella, chilies and parmesan. The waitress didn’t initially write down the order, nor did she when she came back a second time to retake the order because she had forgotten. Starry got a little worried that she was going to mistake our Jeffer for Jefferson (another similarly named vegetarian pizza on the menu) since she didn’t actually write down anything. Sure enough, when Starry went to confirm that she got the order correct, the waitress told the chef “they actually want The Jeffer pizza, not Jefferson”, as though it was somehow our mistake.

Mushroom "chicarrones"

Mushroom “chicharrones”

Fortunately, the mushroom chicharrones were pretty unique and made for a good snack while we waited for the rest of our meal (though, the name was confusing because they didn’t have the chewy texture that true chicharrones have). Our bone marrow arrived shortly after, which was tasty but poorly executed. The bones were too hot to touch, and they didn’t serve it with any little spoons to scoop out the marrow so it was somewhat difficult to enjoy. Starry even had burn marks on her finger tips the next day!

Ouch!

Too hot to handle.

Our pizza finally came, and while the toppings – especially the house made turducken – were fresh and delicious, the crust wasn’t nearly as thin as we were expecting. And for a place that spent six months perfecting the dough before opening, and that charges nearly $20 for a 10-inch pizza, we expected a little more. We decided to pack up the rest of the pizza and head back to our cabin so we could enjoy it with some 2011 Navarro Shiraz and Pennyroyal Laychee Goat Cheese.

The Jeffer

The Jeffer

All and all, the food was good and while the service was very friendly, they made a few missteps that can be chalked up to new restaurant jitters. And if you’re craving California-style pizza in Anderson Valley, this is certainly the place to go. But next time we will make a reservation at the buzzed about Coq Au Vin, where Starry can practice her French with the owner!

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